Ladies-orangutans from Sumatra lipstick lips
You are my sprawling sapinda over a murmuring brook with rambutan under the "hedgehog". I open the rind with my teeth, enjoy the taste of the pulp resembling grapes, but without foolish whims in the form of four bones. I breathe in the fruit smell of your hair and we intertwine in an erotic dance. This is not just you and me. There is also an iron cup for coffee, giving strength to my love. Beats the drum drops fell to the ground. This sweat fills the face, but the path goes upward. Crawling on the steep slope of the mountain, and reaching the top, again fall down.
Bob and Vika are sledding, having overtaken me by twenty steps, while I squeeze like a "stupid penguin" between the rocks that were randomly dumped in a pile. With a few sweeping movements, I drag the body up, take the penultimate rambutan out of my bag, and I am happy to see that Bob sat down on a fallen log and lit a cigarette. The bright forest of rubber trees is over. Trail drill entered the evergreen lace of fern, moss and creepers. The leaves of the trees increased in size by adding moisture and shade to the air. There was a laugh of birds.
The outside world ended in this place. Throwing the bags, we stepped into the thicket, immediately enveloped us with an emerald blanket and gave us the opportunity to talk more quietly. Brown color of fallen leaves and greens alternated with splashes of scarlet flowers. When direct sunlight reached the basement, that space was filled with gold and a delicate orange haze. The footpath slid along the smooth curves of the hills, and, wiping my forehead with the cap, I rejoiced at every opportunity for respite. Bob nodded his head at a tall tree on which was a big nest.
- What is it, Bob? I asked curiously. - The eagle's nest?
- Not. The Forest Man lives there. Apacabar!
- Apacabar! - we answered in unison.
Bob thoughtfully scratched his nose.
- Good. Come on, time to go.
Time stretched during ascents and shortened on descents. It happened that Bob pointed at the plants and called them with Latin names. This is amazing for an Indonesian. Especially if he is from Sumatran wilderness and in universities he did not study. Each name in the language of Caesar, our guide ended with the same "Apacabar". Having looked at each other, we looked at him meaningfully and answered “Apacabar” in a choir. So a few hours passed.The sun reached the zenith and crossed the invisible line when the treetops parted a little, revealing a small clearing and giving way to the heavenly blue.
Using a fallen tree trunk like a sofa back, we sat down on the ground, got drinking water from a backpack and were silent for a while. Here a lingering cry, like a human one, flew to us. His echo struck the bottom and, transforming into a hollow howl, came back.
- VovoVooooooo !!!
I got a cold skin. Bob started, and when the sound was repeated, he answered it, folding his palms with his mouthpiece. Raising his index finger up, he slyly winked at Vick:
- The forest man is coming here. Apacabar!
- Bagus! Good!
Over our heads flashed reddish-red wool and looking closer it became clear how two monkeys slide from branch to branch. It was about thirty meters away. Struck by the grace of movement. It's more like swimming than monkey jumping. Bob shouted again and both the Orzgutanga descended. One of them looked at us carefully and suddenly smiled. Primates have a conscious facial expressions - I swear that it was a real smile.It seems that the visitor was happy about the pineapple in Bob's bag. Rambutan I will not give him! After all, we have love.
Macaques, as well as other creatures with hands and the like of thoughts, often amuse the audience with their behavior. They are clowns, and sometimes sweet little animals. There are evil and good ones among them, but they are always a parody. A self-respecting average macaque can do "pu", and if necessary it can whistle a gold chain from the neck of a large-aged widow in Balinese Ubud. Do not let the umbrella out of your hands. Girls, women! Hold your ears with your hands - the monkey will otderet them together with earrings with the speed of the station pickpocket.
Forest people cause completely different emotions. Their genes are closer to human genes than other creatures of our planet, including chimpanzees and gorilla. They have a complex social structure, they teach offspring, use tools and are able to draw with paints, pencils, felt-tip pens. There is a case when a female orangutan crumbled a pencil with its teeth, rubbed it on paper with a finger, and then added a different color in the same way, creating beautiful and logical patterns. Ladies-orangutans even make their lips lipstick and they do not need to learn this - this is a favorite activity from early infancy. They can invent and trade.They can solve complex problems without trial and error. The development of these amazing creatures you feel when you see them in the wild, not in the slammer. "Lucky" behind bars of the zoo are well aware of their imprisonment - I am sure of that.
Unfortunately, the Forest people who came to the call of Bob did not have felt-tip pens with them, and they forgot their easel at home. On the way to the place of lodging, we repeatedly encountered other groups of primates. They looked at us curiously.
Before dusk we reached the creek, pure as a diamond. In some places, he formed small lakes in which it was possible to take a cool bath. We lit a fire and Bob realized Rendang for four. After eating to heaps, I fell on a warm stone, and Vika scared a praying mantis. Rendang softened my flesh and so my mind demanded a cup of hot tea.
- Apacabar? - said Bob, staring at me. There was a question mark in his eyes.
- Apacabar! - I answered out of habit.
He laughed and explained the meaning of this Indonesian word. It meant: "How are you?"
For today, my daughter and I answered him fifty times, "How are you!" on "How are you?".
- Apacabar, Bob.Great was Apacabar today!
Vika opened the notebook and grated it with a pen.
In the morning, at about eight orang-utanha with our baby arrived at our camp. Bob says that he has already encountered her many times in the jungle. He does not exclude that the Forest Lady loved him. Well, I love rambutan. No one and nothing will break our eternal loyalty under the Sumatran skies.
Note Rendang - Indonesian Meat Dish
P.S. If you decide to go to Bukit Lavang, you want to recommend Bob. A cheerful, intelligent man, who knows his native jungle.
His contacts on Facebook
Personal page: Bob Firman Setepu
Public Page: Bukit Lawang Sustainable Orang-Utan Adventure
1. Taxi from the airport of Medan to Bukit Lavanga costs 300.000 Indonesian rupees - 20 euros.
2. "Yhhh Sumatran road! Yhhh, steel magistal!" Four hours drive.
3. North Sumatra. We are walking by the setting sun. By gibbon named Vasya. By orangutan named Peter. Nothing has changed in the land of dwarfs from the Batanghari River over the past two years, but we have become older. The movements have become harder and smarter, the step is harder and only a voice whispers as before: thanks Life, I love you and I pray for a bottle of water ... today, now. Send me a stall with a thick Indonesian aunt inside.Let her smile and pour into my glass. Let drove presses the pedal and the world whirls around us.
4. Classic photo of Bukit Lavang.
6. This is a pleasant, thriving village.
8. Your obedient servant and Vika spent the night three kilometers away from her after arriving from Medan and before leaving.
10. In the morning - go!
11. Rubber miner.
14. The Forest Man lives here. Apparently, he was away on business.
15. Meet. This is Camponotus Nurse.
Mothers do not bite. Folders bite. In the Sumatran forest their weight. The size of this miracle reaches three centimeters. Our ordinary ant is just a dwarf compared to this aunt. She will stop the galloping horse and enter the burning hut, if necessary.
16. Call me easy, Ivanovich.
17. The length of the local scolopendra is about 17-19 centimeters. She is poisonous. They do not die from the bite, but the wound hurts for several days.
18. Nest of wild bees.
19. The jungles of northern Sumatra.
24. They are very few, but they are alive! For them there is an unequal battle - the villages of Bukit Lavang and concerns for the production of so-called "bio-gasoline" and paper. The population over the past 20 years has doubled.
28. Orangutanenok Vasya from the jungle of Sumatra dreams of becoming a pilot.
30. Meeting with this monkey in the forest is unforgettable and makes the heart jump out onto the path.
(c) Viktoria Nakropin
31. Mini-lion. Not every macaque can do that, but those few beasts chosen by God who succeed are extremely dangerous. If you do not bite then kiss.
34. Light, camera, motor!
35. Waterfall near the camp.
36. For lovers of paint - brighter
37. ... but the atmosphere was just that. Bats and huge butterflies flew around.
38. A huge shadow fell to the ground. And then he appeared from the forest himself - a long one and a half meters, with eyes-plates and angry.
40. Bob, personally. I highly recommend this person - he is developed, intelligent, knowledgeable and cheerful.
45. His partner. He was with us for a short time. Helped drag belongings back.
48. Return. Right for dinner, we reached the gate to the village.
49. Dushila wild thirst. Long time, I did not get drunk.